Marthe

I am in love with what our French sewcialists are producing at the moment.  My IG feed is just full of French sewers and when I spotted Republique du Chiffon's Marthe pattern I just had to have a go.

I made it out of a cotton jersey so didn't feel I needed (or wanted!) the button back fastening.  This has to be about the most funniest pattern I've ever worked with, mostly due to google translate.  My favourite being "electroplate" = press.  The instructions made no sense whatsoever once translated but fortunately the pattern was pretty simple and the diagrams helped.

My French is very very beginners-in-an-allo-allo styleee so I picked up a few new words -

Dos = back

Devant = front

Manche = sleeve (google translates this as"handle"- you can imagine the confusion).  I love the translations of the imperatives for instructing - "perform, realize and mount" if only all pattern instructions were like this...

As usual I added an additional 2" for ma looooong bod-ay but other than that no other alterations.  I love working with jersey so easy to whack under the overlocker.  I did mess up the neck (there's an additional set of instructions on Republique du Chiffon's website of how to administer the neck band.  I messed up on the cover stitching and had to unpick and picked a hole in the fabric - eek!

Fortunately it's not noticeable to the naked eye! Phew!

Ooo-la-la

Ultimate Wrap Dress v's Gapey Neck

I have absolutely no joy with sewing dresses for myself.  I'm too tall, everything requires FBAs, hips are big, waist is small,  basically everything requires adjusting and it drives me crazy.  My trick for some feel good sewing is bring out the jersey.  The Ultimate Wrap Dress by Sew Over It is perfect for me and perfect for jersey.  For this dress I used a lightweight jersey, plain black as I made it for work wear.  

 I read around various blogs first before starting and most people were commenting on the bagginess of the sleeves so I took a good inch out when closing the seams, it was fitting-as-you-go sewing but I do think you could have baggier sleeves as there are gathers at the sleeve head which would hold it nicely, it's just my preferred style to have more fitted sleeves.

My first attempt was in a navy and taupe jersey but there were some serious neck-gaping issues.  I found this tutorial by By Hand London to fix a gapey back neck, I adjusted the pattern and it totally worked!  Check out that smoooooooth neck!

I'm totally stoked with the results and will now apply it to all my future dress makes!

The only issue I have with this make is that I couldn't get the tension right with my overlocker and the hem is pretty horrendous.  Not sure where I'm going wrong with it.  New needles maybe?  How often should they be changed on an overlocker?

The ties are pretty long but I like that I can wrap them completely around my waist, they could be altered to be shorter.  The only alteration I made with the dress was to lengthen by my usual 3" as I'm quite tall and I wanted a respectable length for work.

(Fanny Street - he he!)

I'm already working on my next Ultimate Wrap Dress and pondering whether I could make it sleeveless for summer...?

All pics by janiejanepics.blogspot.co.uk 

Coppelia Wrap Top

Here's my Coppelia wrap top.  I opted for the pull-over top rather than the wrap around but have plans to give that a go in the future.

I love patterns with raglan sleeves, ah no insetting.  The fabric is cotton (I got it in the sale) with a slight stretch to it.  I love the variations of stripe sizes.  The Coppelia has cuffs which are very cute too.

Alterations: as with everything I lengthen it by my usual 3".

My proudest moment with this top - someone mistaking it for a Jack Wills!

Hello kitty.

Photos by: janiejanepics.blogspot.co.uk

Nettie Bodysuit

I made a couple of Nettie bodysuits back in summer.  Such a sweet sweet pattern.  Variations of necklines and sleeve lengths included.  Here are my versions.  The only alteration I made was to lengthen by my usual 3 inches, being a tall lady an'all!

Love this low back.  I made it mostly using my overlocker.

Flip it round...short sleeves, low neck and high back

Missed that bit of hair, damn it!  The fabric was an ex-M&S bolt, super stretchy!

I love those little snap fastens (hidden in these photos!)

Photos by http://janiejanepics.blogspot.co.uk/

Blog Hop

Thank you to Charlene at http://oneyearonewardrobe.wordpress.com/ and Rachael at http://thegirlwhomakesthings.blogspot.co.uk/ for my nominations for the Blog Hop!  What does it involve? Answer a couple of questions and off you go!

Why do I write?

I started blogging (with great encouragement from the #sewcialists on Twitter!) to mostly share my disasters in the hope of finding solutions.  However I'd say my blog has developed to show the best of  my pride and joy when things go right now!
I LOVE clothes and sadly don't have the time to blog as much as I'd like but I do really enjoy reading others blogs for inspiration.  So many inspiring sewers out there!

What am I working on?

At the moment Papercut Patterns Coppelia.  I'm most definitely an Indie pattern designer kinda gal.

 

 Those boring photos on the packets of the mainstream patterns do absolutely nothing for me (you could say I lack imagination!).  I also prefer an up-to-date high street kinda look.  I've also been hard at work on Closet Case Patterns Nettie over the summer - blog to follow and I've just bought the Named Clothing pattern Nascha skirt, can't wait to get started!

How does if differ from others of it's genre?

I'm not here to be a professional blogger, simply to share.  Easy!

How does my writing process work?

Hmm, as and when I have the time and also getting hold of a photographer.  Quite difficult to take back shots by oneself! I'm a sporadic blogger!  I also gain lots of knowledge and inspiration from Twitter and Instagram, you can find me @notchesnnotions and sewingsarah01 Instagram.

Now I'd like to nominate Stephanie at http://loveteachsew.wordpress.com/ because she's a new mum and still manages to sew none stop! Super mum!

Darling Ranges Dress

The Megan Nielsen Darling Ranges Dress

Here's my summer version.  I didn't change a thing with the pattern.  I cut the smallest size, which seems to fit well - perhaps the waist could be taken in a little but overall it feels great.  I was a little concerned that a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) would be required as I have a large bust (ahem!) and usually struggle to get dresses to fit due to this, but no problemo at all!

I originally added ties at the back (as Megan suggests in the pattern) but the gathers on the skirt felt just too poofy! So I took them off and opted for the belted look instead, which feels much better as I'm not too comfortable with the "sack" feel.

It really was a joy making this.  I downloaded the pattern as a PDF and of all patterns I have downloaded this was the cutest instruction booklet!  Megan gives a vast variety of options (which are not evident on the pattern brief-definitely getting your money's worth!) of styles to play with.  The instructions are super clear.  I've always struggled making my own bias binding but I'll be following Megan's instructions from now on as it was soooo simple and worked a dream!

I used a cotton lawn fabric, which I also loved working with, but I think I overstretched it a little on the neck and the back neckline isn't quite sitting right but hey ho!  I've had heaps of positive comments on this dress and people seem genuinely suprised it's not a ready-made!

I also added the pockets into this which are great, you can actually fit your mobile phone into them, roomy!  When reading around on this pattern I saw a few people having problems with pointy darts - I'm fortunate enough to have not had that problem with this.  I think it may be due to the type of fabric?  The cotton lawn is so easy to press giving a nice crisp finish.

Unfortunately I cut a little too much off the length than I actually wanted but it's still wearable and I'll just adjust the pattern for the next one!  There are some great tutorials on Megan's website for this dress.  I've already started drafting a round neck for the next one!

Polka Moss Skirt

Hello there.  I recently finished my third Grainline Mini Moss Skirt, although I consider this to be my first really as it's the one that I'm truly happy with.  It's a blatant copy of Jen's Moss (I loved her so much it had to be done!).

I had a total disaster with the zip and having to re-insert one -not to the colour of my liking - the fit is not too bad at all!  For my previous Moss skirts the waist has been too big and the waistband too short.  This time I graded the yokes in by a total of 1 inch which then seemed to make the waistband fit perfectly.

I've never graded before and I'm desperate the increase my skills in this area.  I did lots of reading around but couldn't find anything on grading yokes for skirts.  So I had a BIG think and my brain produced this...

 

(yes there are three lines on the left, one was drawn in error, oopsy!)

After checking fitting on my previous Moss I measured two 1/4 inch darts onto the yoke.  I then folded the darts in.  By the power of maths the combined yokes then reduce the fit in by 1 inch.  I got such a better fit, although I still need to grade down a size at the waist.

The button was fun to put on too!  A delve into the tool box for a hammer, much excitement!

Fabric- Ikea